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Two nautical charts are on the ship?s navigation table. Both charts show the ship has now entered waters that have never been surveyed. The concerned captain relies on depth soundings to chart a safe course. This is a new channel, one he?s never sailed; although he?s safely traveled the Antarctic innumerable times before.

The sun sets and our ability to see is reduced. After that, the heavy, thick snow starts to fall. The bridge windows start to accumulate the large flakes and we have difficulty seeing the icebergs ahead. We can rely on the radar to clearly show the floating impediments that loom ahead. The screen shows the icebergs in frigid orange. All at once, a giant orange blob fills the screen. It?s only three kilometers distant from us.

The captain quietly issues a command at the one kilometer mark. The ships course is smoothly changed by the helmsman?s expert maneuvering. Found only here, the tabular iceberg peeks through the snow and fog like a shy ghost. Sporting straight sides that rise rapidly into the air, this berg is over one hundred feet tall. The top is very flat and very wide.

The berg, with its massive size, found me awestruck. It was simply one more of Antarctica?s treasures. Attempting to reach the Antarctic Circle, we have been cruising aboard a polar-class vessel. We hope to reach that imaginary vortex on the bottom of the globe. Life was seemingly absent on some of the far-away places we passed on our trip. Seventy-nine years after having been first sighted in 1820, a human spent an entire winter on Antarctica for the first time. While attempting to find the southern pole, many adventurers died. Scientists were the next group of people to come to Antarctica. Traveling to Antarctica used to be the reserve of the very rich. Now, for about the same cost as going to the Caribbean, you can visit the seventh continent.

A manta ray with a curved tail is a little bit like what Antarctica looks like. The manta ray?s tail extends to within 500 miles of South America. Home to the worst seas on the planet, this space is known as the Drake Passage. Reaching Antarctica by passing through this area, which has also been called the ?Slobbering Jaws of Hell,? is difficult, but worthwhile. The matronly passenger told us to make sure our gear was well-stowed and our cabin portholes were securely latched before retiring.to bed.

After sailing from Ushuaia, in Argentina, we sailed through the Beagle Channel and reached the open ocean. Tempestuous waters were then sailed for two more days. The winds reached near gale-force and were always blowing. The spray splashed even above my fourth-deck window as waves crashed across the bow. Seeing swells of fifteen to forty feet in size did nothing to quell our seasickness.

Two days out from South America brought us into the Southern Ocean. A coastal sanctuary was my first view the next morning. The seas seemed to have been calmed by the land. Mile-high summits were draped in wispy clouds. The smooth, white glaciers showed stark contrast from the dark, angular mountains that stuck through them. Frozen slab ice entered the water. It was rough and bumpy, cracked and dirty. Looking like the mountains suddenly jumped from the ocean, they seem tall enough to be home to Mt. Everest or the like.

The trip to the continent is similar, according to one passenger, to the labor of childbirth. Compared to all the other seven continents, Antarctica is the windiest, coldest, driest and highest. Antarctica?s polar plateau gets the same amount of precipitation as Death Valley, but the continent holds 70 percent of all the freshwater we have on earth. Antarctica is owned by no one, harbors no indigenous human population, nor do animals live year round on her.

We have to rely upon the weather to plan where to sail or when and where to land on shore in this inclement area. Our first trip to shore was actually able to proceed, even though we?d been warned this may not be the case. The groups to which we?d been assigned assembled on deck. I climb into an inflatable boat with the nine other people in my group. We finally reach the continent after crossing one more quarter mile of sea. With that last step, I join a small group of travelers that can say they?ve actually reached Antarctica?s landmass.

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